Customer Reviews Five Ten Hiangle

I had to go a full size up just to get my foot in. First bought a size down, then my street size, then half size up. Once I got it I loved them.

Ideal climbing shoe for almost every climbing situation. Hits that sweet spot between soft/sensitive and stiff/supportive. My suggestion is to go 1/2 size down from street shoe - the leather stretches enough to match your foot without losing performance. My best choice shoe to try and onsight everything - techy faces and slabs, full tension overhangs, indoor competition climbs - everything!

Fit/Sizing: My street shoe is 10.5 and I wear a 10 in these. Compared to the Dragons they are a full size larger than marked, so if you wear an 11 in those, get a 10 in these. I could have squeezed into a 9.5 and let loose some tears, but I decided to leave that for walking around in my Dragons. These fit and feel exactly like the Evolv Nexxo ("love bump" and all) but the c4 rubber makes this shoe superior in my opinion. Sorry Chris. Performance: These are aggressive enough to boulder in but I really would leave the bouldering to a more sensitive shoe. This is a stiff, edging shoe: it smears okay, but compared to the Dragons or the Team VXi it's garbage. I'd say it performs best on tiny micro edges. I really don't mind roof climbing in these because I'm confident they'll stick. Beefs: These shoes turn your feet blue. The other reviews I've read aren't lying. Also, I don't really like how they're marketing these shoes as shoes for the "cost-conscious." They're a little cheaper than their most expensive shoe...that's one quickdraw. Initially I was actually turned off to these shoes for the way they're marketed because the price difference between these and other shoes is so minuscule that it's not worth mentioning. Using "budget" nomenclature makes me feel like the company cut corners with the product or is trying to perpetuate an idea that these are shoes for a novice climber. Neither of those things are true of these shoes, but it frustrates me nonetheless. In short I think these make a great all-around shoe and I happily slide them on my feet every day.

I'm a men's 10.5 street shoe size. I normally wear Dragons for bouldering in size 10.5. The 9.5 in the hiangle has the same sole length as the 10.5 dragons. The leather upper however stretches quite a lot as hiangle breaks in, so the shoe is designed with a much tighter body of the shoe than the dragon which is synthetic. As a result, when first trying on they had a super tight fit, but opened up nicely (even over the toes) within 3 sessions. The heel is much shallower than the dragons. I have a foot with a narrow shallow heel but wider ball of foot/toes. I found the dragon, not being able to stretch, was always a little tight in the toe box but way too deep in the heels. The hiangle is great for many profiles of feet, since the leather stretches in the toe box to account for your foot shape. Now about performance: this shoe is stiff. The thermoplast midsole extends to right before the tips of your toes on the sole. The result of this is still some sensitivity when feeling out holds, but a very inflexible sole. This makes the shoe ballin for edging, but makes the shoe a little too inflexible for very steep and overhung bouldering where you really curl your feet into holds or need to contort the shape of your shoe to smedge or curl a toe into a pocket. At the end of the day it comes down to personal preference. I prefer to have I much more flexible shoe at the expense of edging power. For this reason I feel like the hiangle would be perfect without the thermoplast midsole. However, if you dig stiff shoes this may be the shoe for you. If you're buying this as your first pair of aggressive shoes, consider whether you want: 1) a shoe with more support for weaker toe muscles (hiangle) but forces you to use your upper body and core more since your footwork is restricted; or 2)a softer shoe (dragons, teams, etc) which will work those teeny supporting muscles like crazy and allow you to really use your feet and legs more when you climb. Kinda glad I first transitioned into aggressive shoes with Dragons. But now in the hiangles I'm really rediscovering my biceps....